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The Portuguese unsuccessful attempt to capture the island
in 1531, during which Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat,
was assisted by the Turkish navy, the Portuguese finally secured
control in 1535 by taking advantage of a quarrel between the
sultan and the Moghul emperor, Humayun. Humayun had defeated
Bahadur Shah the previous year and had forced him into exile
in Malwa, but while he was distracted by clashes with the
Afghan Sher Khan, Bahadur was able to return. With pressure
still being exerted by both the Portuguese and the Moghuls,
Bahadur Shah concluded a peace treaty with the Portuguese,
effectively giving them control over the port at Diu. The
treaty was soon cast to the wind and, although both Bahadur
Shah and his successor, Sultan Mahmud III, attempted to contest
the issue, the peace treaty which was eventually signed in
1539 ceded the island of Diu and the mainland enclave of Ghoghla
to the Portuguese. Soon after the signing of this treaty,
the Portuguese began constructing their fort.
This beach town was the first landing point for the Parsis
when they fled from Persia. Like Daman and Goa, Diu was a
Portuguese colony until it was taken over by India in 1961
and was made a Union Territory rather than as part of Gujarat.
The former colony includes the island of Diu itself, about
13km long and three km wide, separated from the coast by a
narrow channel. There are also two tiny mainland enclaves.
One of these, on which the village of Ghoghla stands, is the
entry point to Diu if you arrive through the town of Una.
There is a huge fort, a sight that justifies the long trip
to Diu. The northern side of the island, facing Gujarat, is
of tidal marsh and saltpans while the southern coast alternates
between limestone cliffs, rocky caves and sandy beaches.
The rocky and sandy interior reaches a maximum height of just
29m, so agriculture is limited although there are extensive
stands of coconut and other palms. Branching palms (Hyphaene
species) are very much a feature of the island and were originally
introduced from Africa by the Portuguese.
Diu Town
Diu Town has three churches, although only one is fulfilling
its original function. (It’s said that there are now only
about 15 Christian families left on the whole island.) Access
to St Paul’s is through the adjacent school ground. This wonderful
old church is suffering serious neglect, with beautiful old
paintings slowly disintegrating, but it is still a peaceful
place.
Nearby is St Thomas’ Church, which houses the Diu Museum.
There’s an interesting collection of Catholic statues. If
you thought the Hindu pantheon was confusing, take a look
at the bewildering collection of Christian saints. The third
church is St Francis of Assisi, which has been converted into
a hospital.
Unlike Daman, the buildings in Diu show a significant Portuguese
influence. The town is a maze of narrow, winding streets and
many of the houses are well ornamented and brightly painted.
At the back of the Town Square there’s a small but interesting
bazaar. In a small park on the esplanade, the Marwar Memorial,
topped by a griffin, commemorates the liberation of the island
from the Portuguese. Diu Aquarium is worth visiting, which
is on the road leading the fort. It’s a tiny tank containing
a handful of goldfish-sized specimens.
Completed in 1541, the massive Portuguese Fort with its double
moat (one tidal) must once have been virtually impregnable,
but sea erosion and neglect are leading to a slow but inevitable
collapse. Piles of cannon balls litter the place and the ramparts
have a superb array of cannons, many old yet in good condition.
Diu is a popular hangout with travellers and you’ll probably
see more foreigners here than anywhere else in Gujarat. Although
the beaches are nothing compared to those of Goa, this is
still a great place to let your hair down, sit back with a
cold beer and watch the world drift by.
Around the Island
Beaches, Temple and fort-satiated travellers head to Nagoa
to catch up on some serious relaxation, with its pleasant
palm-fringed beach, largely deserted and safe for swimming.
However, since the construction of a new road, access has
now been provided to Diu's previously unvisited beaches in
the southeast of the island. These include, from east to west,
Jallandhar, Chakratirth and stunning Sunset Point.
Fudam
Close to Diu, the village of Fudam has a huge abandoned church,
Our Lady of Remedies. A large, old, carved wooden altar with
Madonna and child remains inside.
Vanakbara
At the extreme west of the island, Vanakbara has church (Our
Lady of Mercy), fort, lighthouse, small bazaar, post office
and fishing fleet. A ferry crosses from here to Kotla village
on the mainland and you can get a bus from there to Kodinar.
This little fishing village is worth a visit --- wander through
the town to the port area where you can see the locals mending
nets and repairing their colourful fishing boats.
