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The
average tourist to Ladakh usually begins by taking a tour of Leh,
the capital and prime town of Ladakh. It invariably ends the sightseeing
the monasteries, justly famous, of Shey, Sankar, Phyang, Spituk
and Hemis. Some might include Alchi, Likir and Lamayuru. Few if
ever trek to interior villages, venture north to Narbu valley or
visit the Zanaskar region.
Yet, the last few years have seen an increase in tourists to the western flank
of Ladakh, which comprises several valleys. Chief among these are Drass, Suru,
Mulbekh and Zanskar. Lying immediately east of the Greater Himalayan wall and
drained and formed by the west most tributaries of the Indus river, these constitute
present-day Kargil district.
This region once formed part of the erstwhile kingdom of Ladakh. In fact, it
was the first to be inhabited by the early colonists of Ladakh - the Indo-Aryan
Mons, the Dards of Central Asia and itinerant Tibetans. Also, its valleys, by
virtue of their proximity to Kashmir, Kishtwar, Kulu and Gilgit-Baltistan served
as the initial receptacle of the cultural waves and ethnic movements that emanated
from across the Greater Himalayan wall.
As the area receives abundant water from rivers originating in the Greater Himalaya,
the undergrowth here is more luxuriant than in eastern Ladakh. The upper Suru
valley, in particular, is famous for its grassland, which attracts a large number
of Bakarwal herdsmen from the Jammu hills.