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Shekhawati
: Circuit Wise
Places
of Interest: Sikar- Nawalgarh - Dundlod - Mandawa - fatehpur - Jhunjhunu
The
area of Shekhawati covers several villages and towns in north
eastern Rajasthan, which can be approached from Bikaner, Jaipur,
and Delhi and comprises the Sikar and Jhunijhunu districts. Small
towns dot these two districts and contain within themselves some
of the most elaborate havelis, stepwells, and temples. When you
travel around this region, you stumble across some truly marvelous
treasures.
Even today, the entire region of Shekhawati is known for its exquisite
frescoes and popularly called the "Open art gallery".
No other region, anywhere in the world, has such a large concentrationof
frescoes. This is even more interesting as the landscape here
is totally bare- flat and colourless.
Rao Shekha, the founder of Shekhawati, came topower at the young
age of 12 and established a reign that lasted 43 years. His power
grew steadily and he became a force to reckon with in a very short
period. The Rajput nobles who ruled over the small thikanas, or
fiefdoms, became great patrons of art and financed the frescoes
ontheir havelies. Up to the early 19th century the themes were
largely religious. Other historical events, personages, battle
scenes, and folk heroes were also painted in great detail. These
paintings were a record of those times. By the end of the 19th
century, there was a slight change inth patroage. The business
community, Marwaris, found itself in a position of strength. When
the East India Company began to make its presence felt in this
part of Rajasthan, it opened several avenues for the hardworking
and enterprising Marwari. The volume of trade increased and the
Marwaris began to spread their branches all over the country.
Even after spending several years away from their homeland, these
now successful and wealthy businessmen remained true sons of the
soil. While they lived austerely in their adopted cities,they
sent back huge sums of money to their families. They spent large
sums on the welfare of their community -wells, reservoirs, schools,
colleges, dharamshalas and gaushalas were financed. Most of them
had left their families behind and they returned to build some
huge mansions for them. They were in a position to show off their
new status and there was no better way of doing this than commissioning
the most intricate frescoes on their havelies. Very soon it became
customary to have a painted haveli and the artists were kept busy
moving from one village to the next. The demand for these painters
kept growing and very soon unskilled painters and masons too began
to get involved in the paintings.The themes of these paintings,
as mantioned earlier,reflected those times and very soon the purely
mythological themes gave way to western influences. Cars,trains,aeroplanes,ships,telephones,foreigners
in hats, suits and gowns began to appear on the walls with scenes
from Lord Krishna's life.
Most
of the villages of Shekhawati have kept their rustic charm intact
and a drive around these painted towns can be a wonderful experience.
While the painted mansions are certainly the focal point here,
don't miss the unique architectural style of the havelis. They
are marvels of goods design.Several countryards and inner chambers
were designed to keep the women folk safe and comfortable but
segregated. From the outside these havelies looked like huge blocks
but were so ingeniously planned that they provided adequate protection
from the harsh summers. Other monuments to look out for are the
step wells, the four-pillared wells, temples and the dharamshalas.
Some of the important towns that should not be missed are Sikar-
where the temples of Gopinath,Raghunath and Madan Mohan are intersting
as are the Biyani havelies with their unusual blue and white colours.
Two other important temples in the vicinity are the Harsh Nath
temple and the Jeen Mata temple. The fort for Lachmangarh
is one of the most impressive and imposing in Shekhawati. Try
to get a bird's eye view of the town below- it has been designed
to resemble the planned city of Jaipur. Ramgarh is famous
not only for the havelis of the Poddars but also for its rustic
wood furniture. Fatehpur has some beautiful frescoes in
the Indian as well as western styles. Particularly noteworthy
are the Chamariya and Singhania havelies. Khatu Shyamji
is more famous for its temple of Shri Shyamji and draws devotees
throughout the year. People walk several miles to offer homage
at the temple from all over India.
Nawalgarh is home to some of the leading merchant families
of the country. This is also the place to find some of the finest
frescoes in the entire region. Look for Roop Niwas, Poddar haveli,
Saat Haveli, a few old temples,and forts and a heritage hotel.
Dundlod is known for its fort and a palace that has been
turned into a heritage hotel. The Goenka havelis are also famous.
The fort of Mandawa dominates the town and it was one of
the earliest heritage hotels in this area. The Chokhani, Ladia
and Saraf havelies should be will find something to fascinate
you and hold your interest. If carrying excess baggage does not
daunt you, then buy the rustic, carved wooden furniture and other
items for your home. Quaint little wooden things that belong to
the late 19th century, or may be the early 20th century,can be
found all over this region. If pots and pans interest you then
do look out for some traditional cooking vessels in the markets.
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