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Mahakaleshwar
The presiding deity of time. Shiva, in ali his splendour, reigns eternal in Ujjain.
The temple of Mahakaleshwar, its shikhara soaring into the skies, an imposing
facade against the skyline, evokes primordial awe and reverence with its
majesty. The Mahakai dominates the life of the city and its people, even
in the midst of the busy routine of modern preoccupations, and provides an
unbreakable link with past traditions.
One of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India, the lingam at the Mahakai is believed to
be swayambhu (born of itself), deriving currents of power (shakti) from within
itself as against the other images and lingams which are rituatly established
and invested with mantra-shakti. The idol of Mahakaleshwar is known to be dakshinamurthi,
facing the South, This is a unique feature, upheld by tantric tradition to be
found only in Mahakaleshwar among the 12 Jyotirlingas.
The idol of Ornkareshwar Shiva is consecrated in the sanctum above the Mahakai
Shrine. The images of Ganesh, Parvati and Karttikeya are installed in the west,
north and east of the sanctum sanctorum. To the south is the image of Nandi.
The idol of Nagchandreshwar on the third storey is open for darshan only on the
day of Nagpanchmi.
On the day of Mahashivaratri, a huge fair is held near the temple, and worship
goes on through the night.
Bade Ganeshji Ka Mandir
This temple, situated above the tank near the Mahakaleshwar temple, enshrines
a huge artistic sculpture of Ganesh, the son of Shiva. An idol of this size and
beauty is rarely to be found. The middle of the temple is adorned by an idol
of the panch-mukh! (five-faced) Hanuman. There is provision for learning of Sanskrit
and Astrology in the temple.
Chintaman Ganesh
This temple is built across the Shipra on the Fatehabad railway line. The Ganesh
idol enshrined here is supposed to be swayambhu-born of itself The temple itself
is believed to be of considerable antiquity. Riddhi and Siddhi, the consorts
of Ganesh. are seated on either side of Ganesh. The artistically carved pillars
in the assembly hail date back to the Paramara period. Worshippers throng to
this temple because the deity here is traditionally known as Chintaharan Ganesh,
meaning the 'assure of freedom from worldly anxieties.'
Pir Matsyendranath
This is an extremely attractive spot on the banks of the Shipra, quite close
to the Bhartnhan Caves and the Gadkalika Temple. It is dedicated to the memory
of one of the great leaders of the Natha sect of Saivism-Matsyendranath. Since
muslims as well as the followers of the Natha sect call their saints 'pir' the
ancient site of Pir Matsyendranath is venerated by both. Excavations at this
site have yielded some antiquities which can date back to the 6th and 7th century
BC.
Bhartrihari Caves
These caves are situated just above the bank of the Shipra near the temple of
Gadkalika.
According to popular tradition, thus is the spot where Bhartrihari, who is said
to have been the step-brother of Vikramaditya, lived and mediated after renouncing
worldly life. He is believed to have been a great scholar and poet. His famous
works, Shringarshatak. Vairagyashatak. and Nitishatak, are known for the exquisite
use of the Sanskrit metre.
Kaliadeh Palace
Situated on the banks of the Shipra, the island-like site immediately conjures
up the natural beauty of ancient Ujjam which poets down the ages have waxed lyrical.
The glorious landscape of the flowing river on both sides of the palace and the
man-made tanks and channels with water gurgling through them, provide a spectacular
backdrop to the imposing building.
It is believed that there was once a majestic Sun temple at this site The Avanti-Mahatmya
of the Skanda Purana has recorded a description of the Sun Temple and two tanks,
the Surya Kunda and the Brahma. Kunda People from nearby villages have a ritual
dip in the Surya Kunda even today Remains of the old temple a.re found scattered
all over this area.
A fragmented inscription of this piace records the building of the palace in
1458, m rhe time of Mahmud Khilji. The story goes that the tanks were constructed
all round to keep the temperature very low by Sultan Nasiruddin KhilJi. the Sultan
of Maiwa m the 16th century, because he was in the habit of taking mercury which
is hot.
The centra! dome of the palace is a beautiful example of Persian architecture.
Two Persian inscriptions found in one of the long corridors of the palace record
the visits of Emperor Akbar and Jehangir to this palace.
The palace was broken down in the time of the Pindaris and was restored by Madhav
Rao Scindia in 1920 to its present giory. The sun temple was also restored by
the family Kaliadeh Palace is an ideal picnic spot.
Durgadas Ki Chhatri
This distinctive monument glows like a small jewel in the surrounding lush landscape.
Vi Durgadas earned a secure niche for himself in the history of Marwad by his
undaunting, selfless service to the state. He fought for the independene of Jodhpur
after the death of Maharaj Jaswant Singh and helped Ant Singh to ascen the throne
against the wishes of Aurangzeb.
Durgaaas died at Rampura in 1718, and his funeral rites were performed according
to his wishes on the ba.nks of the Shipra. The rulers of Jodhpur had built the
Chhatri to consecrate his memory This beautiful structure, built in the Rajpur
style ot architect, housed a statue of Durgadas Which crumbled down.
Harsiddhi Ternple
This temple rempie occupies a special place in the galaxy of ancient sacred spots
of Ujjain Seated between the idols of Mahalakshmi and Manasaraswati, the idols
of Annapurna is painted with a dark vermillion colour. The Shri Yantra, the symbol
of Power or Shakti, is also enshrined in this temple.
According to the Shiva Purana, when Shiva carried away the burning body of Sati
from the sacrificial fire, her elbow dropped at this place. There is an interesting
legend in the Skanda Purana abou the manner in which the Goddess Chandi acquired
the epithet of Harsiddhi. Once when Shiva and Parvati were alone on mount Kailash,
two demons called Chand and Prachand tried to force their way in. Shiva called
upon Chandi to destroy them which she did. Pleased, Shiva bestowed upon her the
epithet of 'one who vanquishes all'.
The temple was reconstructed during the Maratha period and the two pillars adorned
with iamps are special features of Maratha art These lamps, lit during Navaratn.
Present a glorious spectacle, There is an ancient well on the premises, and an
artistic pillar adorns the top of it.
Siddhavat
This enormous banyan tree on the banks of the Shipra, has been vested with the
same religious sanctity as the Akashyavat in Prayag and Gaya. Vanshivat of Vrindaban
and the Panchavata of Nasik.
Thousands of pilgrims take a dip in the Shipra from the bathing ghat built here.
According to one tradition. Parvats is believed to have performed her penance
here it used to be a place of worship for the followers of the Natha sect. One
legend has it that some Mughal rulers had cut off the banyan tree and covered
the site with iron sheets to prevent its roots from growing. But the tree piercea
the sheets and grew and flourished. The little village of Bhairogarh near Siddhavat
is famous for its tie-and-die printing for centuries. In the ancient times, when
trade with other countries flourished, exquisitely printed cloth from Bhasrogarh
used to find its way to Rome and China.
Kal Bhairava
The worship of in- eight Bhairavs is a part of Saivite tradition, and the chief
among them is Kal Bhairava. Believed to have been built by king Bhadrasen. on
the banks of the Shipra. There is mention of a Kal Bhairva temple in the Avanti
Khanda of the SKanda Purana. Worship of the Kal Bhaira is believed to have been
a part of the Kapalika and Aghora sects. Ujiain was a prominent centre of these
two sects. Even today, liquor is offered as a part of the ritual to Kal Bhairava.
Beautiful paintings in the Malwa style once decorated the temple walls, only
traces of which are visible. The village of Bhairagarh. famous for its printing,
takes its, name from this tempSe. and is located very near.
Sandipani Ashram
The fact that ancient Ujjain, apart from its political and religious importance,
enjoyed the reputation of being a great seat of iearmng as early as the Mahabharat
penod is borne out by the fact that, according to Puranic traditions. Lord Krishna
and Sudama received regular instruction sn the ashram of Guru Sandipani. The
area near the ashram is known as Ankapata, popularly believed to have been the
place used by Lord Krishna for washing h's writ,ng tablet. The numerals 1 to
100 found on a stone are believed to have been engraved by Guru Sandipani.
The Gomti Kunda, referred to in the Puranas, Was the source of water supply to
the ashram in the olden. days. An image of Nandi, belonging to the Shunga period,
is to be found near the tank.
The followers of the Vajlabha sect regard this Place as the 73rd seat of the
84 seats of Vallabhacharya where he delivered his discourses : throughout India.
Gadkalika
Situaled about two miles from the present town, the deity 'n this temple is believed
to have been worshipped by Kalidasa '"he legend goes that he was an idiot
and it is by this devotion to the Goddess Kalika that he acauired great literary
skili.
Emperor Harsnavarahan had this temple Renovate in the 7th century AD. There is
further evidence of renovation during tne Paramara period. The tempie has been
rebuilt in the modern times by the erstwhile Gwalior State.
Mangalnath
Tne temp-e of Mangamain is situated away horn the bustle of the city and is reached
through a winding road. The temple looks down upon a vast expanse of the Shipra
waters and fills the onlooker with an indescribable sense of peace.
Mangalnath is regarded as the birth place of Mars, according to the Matsya Purana.
In the ancient times, it was famous for a clear view of the planet, and hence
the suitability for astronomical studies. Mahadev or Shiva is the deity which
is worshipped in the temple of Mangalnath.
The Vedha Shala (Observatory)
Ujjain enjoyed a position of considerable importance in the field of astronomy.
Great works on astronomy such as the Surya Siddhanta and the Panch Siddhanta
were written in Ujjain. According to Indian astronomers, the Tropic of Cancer
is supposed to pass through Ujjain. It is also the first meridian of longitude
of the Hindu geographers. From about the 4th century BC. Ujjain enjoyed the reputation
of being India's Greenwich.
The observatory extant today was built by Raja Jai Singh (1686-1743). who was
a great scholar. He translated the works of Ptolemy and Euclid into Sanskrit
from Arabic. Of the many observatories built by him at Jaipur. Delhi, Varanasi,
Mathura and Ujjain. the one at UJJain is the one which is still in use actively.
Astronomical studies are conducted through the Department of Education and the
ephemeris is published every year. There is a small planetarium and a telescope
to observe the Moon, Mars. Jupiter and their satellites. The observatory is also
used for weather forecasts.
Vikram Kirti Mandir
Established on the occasion of the second millenium of the Vikram era. as the
culturai central to perpetuate the memory of Vikramaditya, the Vikram Kirti Mandir
houses the Scindia Orienta! Research Institute, an archaeological museum, an
art gallery and an auditorium.
The Scindia Oriental Institute has an invaluable collection of 18,000 manuscripts
on various subjects and runs a reference library of important orienta! publications.
Rare manuscripts in Prakrit. Arabic, Persian and other Indian languages cover
a wide range ot subjects from Vedic literature and philosophy to dance and music.
Palm leaf and bark leaf (Bhurja Patra) manuscripts are a!so preserved in this
Institute. Apart from an illustrated manuscript of Shrimad Bhagavata in which
actual gold and silver have been employed for the paintings, the Institute has
a ruch collection of old paintings in the Rajput and Mughal styles.
The museum also exhibits a rich array of images, inscriptions, copper plates
and fossils discovered in the Narmada valley A huge skull of a primitive elephant
is of special interest.
Gopal Mandir
This huge temple is situated in the middle of the big market square, it was constructed
by Bayajabai Shinde, the queen of Maharaja Daulat Rao Shinde in the 19th century.
It is a beautiful example of Maratha architecture The sanctum sanctorum is inlaid
with marble and the doors are silver-plated door in the inner sanctum is said
to have been carried to Ghazni from the Somnath temple and from thence by Mahmud
Shah Abdali to Lahore. Mahadji Scindia recovered it and now it has been reinstalled
in this temple.
Navagraha Mandir (Triveni)
Situated on the Triveni Ghat of the Shipra. the temple is situated away from
the old site of Ujjaini town. This temple, dedicated to the nine planets, attracts
large crowds on new moon days falling on Saturdays. Its religious importance
has increased in recent years though there is no known reference to it in the
ancient texts.
Panchakroshi Yatra
Also known as the Pancheshani Yatra, it is a grand tour of Ujjain in which thousands
of people join in every year The Chardwar Yatra, the ceremonial visits to the
four gates, is also associated with this Yatra. The legend goes that when LordShiva
founded Uiiain at Parvati's behest on the banks of the Shipra, four gates were
established to guard the city from all four directions. Four guardian deitses.
Pingaleshwar (East), Kayavarohaneshwar (South). Dardureshwar (North) and Bilveshwar
(West) were appointed with Mahakaleshwar at the centre of the town.
The Panchakroshi Yatra lakes place in the month of Vaishakha which is believed,
according to the Padma Purana, to be an auspicious month for Avantika. The great
bathing festival of Simhastha is also held in the same month. Skanda Purana attaches
great religious sanctity to a five-day stay at Ujjain in the month of Vaishakha
which is probably related to the five-day Panchakroshi Yatra.
Traditional costumes arid k)lk ensembles make a colouful display and the old
and the young join in with great gusto. The Panchakroshi Yatra reinforces the
continuity and unshakeable faith which have marked Indian religious and cultural
traditions down the ages.
Vikram University
A famous centre of learning in the past. Ujjain continues to uphold that tradition.
The establishment of the Vikram University in 1957 was an important andmark Situated
on the Dewas Road this university plays a significant role in the literary and
cultural activities of the city.
Kalidasa Academy
This academy was set up in Ujjain by the Government of Madhya Pradesh to immortalise
the memory of the great poet dramatist, and to create a multi disciplenary institution
to project the genius of the entire? classical tradition with Kalidasa as the
apex. enable research and study in Sanskrit classical and traditional performmg
arts, and facilitate its adaptation for contemporary stage in different cultural
settings and language groups. The Academy complex consists of a theatre built
according to the specifications laid down by Bharata's Natya Shastra. an exhibition
hal! and theatre museum, library, lecture and seminary halls, mini stage for
rehearsals, research facilities for scholars, and a targe open air theatre.
Ram Janardan Temple, Ram Ghat. Harihara Teertha. Mallikarjuna Teertha. Ganga
Ghat. Bohron Ka Roza, Begum Ka Magbara. Bina Neev Ki Masjid. Maulana Rumi Ka
Maqbara and Digambara Jain Museum are some other prominent places of interest
in Ujjain.
